4 days on....

Im in McDonalds, internet is crappy so this is going to be shortish. After my last post we finally got a weather window of sorts. Some sun, a bit warm but windy too - it was time to climb. Id written the roof mantel problem at Isatis off, (L'Insoutenable blah blah blah), as a permanent wettie, but when that wind really blows in Font and the leaves have dropped things can dry super-quick.

I knew this problem being dry could be very short-lived so got fired up and sent this one second go in this session. Not the hardest mantel in Font but a problem well worth seeking out, especially in a warm spell in the forest as its always in the shade.

Next up a cracking steep prow at Demoiselles called Home. 7b/+ i think, but here the wind was less prevalent and the thing was a bit damp so 7b+ felt right for sure. Compression moves on wet holds are always quite tough and I found this hard. Took me about an hour to get the hooks right and squeeze the correct slopers to get this one done. Great out of the way problem, in a new area that has been developed by locals. Definately worth the walk-in. Green though.

Finally the last settled day of weather yesterday saw me back up under the big four at Cuvier Rempart. Id had a session previously on Fourmis Rouge and felt ok on it but yesterday I felt confident it might go due to a new factor. When walking out of Demoiselle the other day ive come upon a massive branch, thin and light, that bent slightly to the right. Once id dried this stick out and taped a brush to the end of it I had a secret weapon - I could clean all the higher holds on Fourmis from the ground, due to the sticks length and the way it bent around the nose of the rock. Previously id almost killed myself trying to hang down from the top and brush the top slopers, these things are super marginal so need to be cleaned before an attempt, now I could brush happily in comfort from ground zero.

So after a good brush off with the stick my first go saw me beat my previous highpoint by being able to slap out left to a lumpy sloper right on the top of the prow. From here you have to dig really deep and hike your right foot super-high to a slopey smear before you finally start to get within reach of decent'ish holds and you can stand up and roll off the nose to glory. Despite reaching a new highpoint getting my foot up blindly, really high, onto the smear proved tough. Between goes I was doing all sorts of stretches and karate kicks to try and give me that neccessary suppleness to yard my leg up. Eventually this worked and after a sketchy rock over out right on that high right foot to a good edge I was done. Topping out to a round of applause from French guys sieging Big Boss was a nice touch.

So im pleased because the rain and my fitness had been such that last Tuesday I really thought climbing those three problems in next two weeks before I leave was going to be asking too much. Now today its raining again but at least ive cleared the immediate tick list ready to ship in a load more of course for the final week. In reality there is really two obvious things that stand out. 8a's or above I havent got the heart for the last minute siege to be honest. I still have two of the big four at Rempart to climb and with more rain due, these dry quick so are likely to feature. The other one is Appartenance at Buthier (pronounced boot't'ay im told). This shut me down back in May but today even with the rain, it was actually semi-dry and I managed most of the moves. The top is a problem as it stays wet and it scary to be honest plus the crimps are sharp and tear skin. However this feels doable now and that would be a great way to sign out of Font for this year. C'mon wind do your stuff...