Not So Magic Wood

Man, I think from living in the States for a couple of winters id forgotten just how damp Europe can be. Im resting today, but not really from climbing as such really, more from the act of "trying to climb". After I last posted I was more optimistic that the weekend forecast was dry and that dry rock would result. True enough it didn't rain and the sun even came out for some fleeting periods but it failed to penetrate the gloom that currently hangs over Magic Wood.

Its just SO moist in there. You cross over the river to get into where the boulders are and almost instantly are hit with these damp plumes of air, rather like when you visit a cave, the ground is saturated and now with day highs of around 10 degrees max it will not dry out easy. Im starting to think maybe I should have stuck with Font but im here now so gonna have to make the best of it for a week or so I think. The worst thing is (and the reason why I am in need of some rest today) is the rocks themselves look dry. You walk around the blocs and the holds are white with chalk dust, drawing you in, thing is once you do chalk up and pull on you realise you have been duped as the holds quickly turn black with moisture. Of course once that happens then you try and kid yourself that its not that bad, you can still pull these moves off, you start to use tissue paper to soak up the damp, you brush every hold hundreds of times, but of course really unless your climbing way below you limit you've had it really.

Still I got drawn in a plenty over the weekend trying Sofa Surfer, Iron Butterfly and Jack's Broken Heart with very limited success. All three of these problems I was really close to back in June so its a bit depressing but i know im not as strong as then so need to get that back and of course the conditions totally suck so perhaps there is still a chance for some success this trip with time. Either way for that to happen I need it to stay dry, anymore rain and im dead, and then perhaps if Im doing the moves now in the damp they will feel easy when the whole place is a bit drier. Thats the theory anyway. Forecast wise no rain is expected this week now so perhaps thats my window, but today its not raining and yet its still super misty and overcast with no wind so ill need better than this I think. Time for a dvd marathon then...