One Step Forward Two Back

Yeah it was going to be a positive post. Yesterday was good, the damp did clear out as predicted with the drier spell and although things were still a bit greasy it was much improved. I fired off Iron Butterfly first try and it felt a hell of a lot easier as I must have been picking up so much moisture on my hands the other day (its a 20 move problem).

So that was good and I walked up to the Sofa Surfer bloc feeling like it could be on. It took a couple of goes to get going but my third and best go of the day saw me reaching for the good right hand edge that marks the end of the difficulties only for my foot to pop at the last minute. Still after a couple more naff goes I left it there thinking by finishing the session strong'ish id be on for it today as that was my best link since June where I fell off the end section due to wet holds.

Sofa Surfer would not be considered a sharp problem for the Wood but it does have a couple of crimps you really bone down on in the middle that do take their toll on your skin. What I did not realise is these edges will really take a chunk out of your index finger if your foot pops unexpectedly. Thats what happened today...again attempt three saw me matched on these crimps setting myself up for the final reaches into the slopey right-handers. Suddenly my right foot popped and I slipped rightwards landing on the pad with a bang. Quick look at my fingers revealed a puncture of my right index finger caused, I guess, because I twisted off rather than fell straight. Its not horrifc but game over of course for the day and now im out tomorow too at least.

I would like to have another lengthy moan about my weak skin and how id be one of the worlds best climbers if I had leather on my finger tips instead, but of course thats rubbish however I split a tip in Magic in June so do feel a little hard done by thats its happened again out of nowhere in cold conditions too. Anyway im not done yet and hopefully with the weather window looking like it will hold good till Sunday I may still have this problem in me before I leave. In the meantime im going to go hiking tomorrow which is the advantage of being in such a stunning place as the alps.

Finally before signing off worth noting that luck, or absence of it in your climbing at a certain point in time is all relative. After my finger incident I went up to spot an Italien guy who has been working High Spirit, an 8a+ boulder problem, for 3 and half years he tells me on and off. He was really up for it today so he said and with my pad meaning he felt more comfortable on the higher moves he fired off a great go getting through all the difficulties only to fall matching at the jug (where the route effectively ends as it does not top out). The Bloke was prettty distraught as it seems his feet popped off alright holds and he did not expect it. After that he was spent and could not get back to his highpoint. Bad days all round then it seems, perhaps its easier just to stick to bouldering 7a.