Brits Abroad...

After the last update I stuck with the limestone and headed to Crag X next. Never ever seen this place remotely dry but I guess id never been there in June before. Always wanted to do Sean's problem after watching One Summer so jumped on that. Its a good problem, albeit you have to be clear on the rules. After that I dynoed out Lift Off. Had a look at The Thing but decided to call it a day, might come back here at some point to try that. 

This was the middle of last week but by Thursday morning something changed. I woke to strong winds and colder air, although I had yet to visit the limestone meccas of Rubicon, Stoney or the Tor I knew I would not be able to resist a dabble on the grit. An hour later saw me up at Stanage. 

I was amazed to see no-one about but then I reminded myself I was acting rather like a typical brit abroad. No local peak climber would be seen doing much on the grit in June as they do not want to battle with unhelpful conditions when cooler temps were needed. Similarly Terry Smith from Basildon on holiday in Benidorm would have no hesitation in cooking himself on the beach at 1pm, guzzling a Stella, when the locals are all indoors having a siesta. 

Still there was a coolish breeze and I was unfazed. This winter id be in the US anyway so this was my chance to try something. Brad Pit was the first boulder problem I remember thinking id like to climb when first getting into climbing and yet to this day Ive never actually properly tried it so I decided to jump on that first. Despite it being June, the strong winds were doing something, as I surprised myself being able to get my heel up ok and pull into the groove relatively comfortably. From here you have to adjust your hands, really sit on the heel and pop to the flatty at the top of the groove to finish. Unfortunately this is where I needed those cooler temps. The holds in the groove are pretty slopey and as you get rocked up on them a lot of pressure is applied. Just as id set myself to go my hands would just rip straight off the slopers and id be back on the mat. 

In the end I sacked it off with my skin very sore. I really would love to climb this boulder problem and believe its on, however I may have to be realistic and accept its not going to happen on this trip to the peak. The last few days has seen the wind drop and humidity pick up..still I haven't totally ruled out a night time attempt if temps come off a bit so we will see. 

In the meantime once id had this taste for grit I couldn't help myself, even in the knowledge I was breaking some cardinal rules bouldering on grit in the summer. The last few days I decided to drop my grade and just climb some other lines id seen or heard about that appealed. I figured that way I could keep my fitness sharp for my upcoming trip and enjoy myself in the process. First up was Dope on a Slope, then we went to Gardoms and I did Perfect Day Direct (photo below) and Marks Roof LH. Finally up at Cratcliffe I campussed my way along Jerrys Traverse and dragged my way up Jerrys Arete. Some really good problems and although my skin is sore today by doing them pretty quickly ill be ok to climb again tomorrow. So there you go peak raiders perhaps Terry Smith sitting on the beach in Benidorm, drinking his Stella has got the right idea after all.