Magic 3 - a return to form

In hindsight the split tip may have been a blessing in disguise. It got me away from the boulders for a day or two and i went hiking instead. My skin grew back and perhaps most key was the wind direction changed and a north-westerly cooled the temps right down. I'd had time to think and get a strategy of exactly what i wanted to have a go at once i got back climbing again. 

First up was a reccy on Octopussy. Since my chat with the German fella at the problem id done some searching for beta on the web and found that sub six-footers could in fact leap for the sloper and then use some serious body tension to get their feet over left and in the heel-toe cam which is what is needed to finish the problem off as you turn the corner onto the slab. I worked my own sequence on the block with some useful encouragement and advice from fellow Brits out visiting on a stag do. I left for lunch feeling pretty confident this one could go down. 

I came back that evening and took a trip up to No Liberty for the first time after it had severed my tip so cruelly. This time i taped the suffering finger with a view id give this one 30mins or so work and see how i got on but no more. 5 or 6 goes later it was done and my first Swiss 8a was on the board. Hopefully from here i could build some momentum. 

Next morning we went back to Octopussy. Temps remained favourable and my skin felt good. Armed with my sequence from the day before i got started. A few goes in and it just wasn't happening. I started to feel the pressure a bit, i knew temps were good, my skin too, but i was also aware the powerful dynamic move to the sloper was taking its toll on my shoulders. I needed to get this done. A long rest and i went for it again...this time i caught the sloper just right and the problem went down. Pleased as i feel this is a tough 8a using my sequence...this is captured in the below vid, enjoy....