Magic 1

We arrived in the Swiss region of Graubunden where Magic Wood is located. This was the view that greeted me on the terrace of our small apartment near the Wood. 

Spots of rain were around but not amounting to much and temps were so much cooler than Italy or Brione. My skin felt good with the rest too. Despite the 3 hour journey we had just undertaken it was time to get out and climb. 

Magic Wood is a wonderful climbing area, it really is. Immaculate steep blocks sit in lush pine woodland above a fast flowing crystal clear river. The boulders are above 1000m altitude wise and so cold air often circulates through the wood making it cool to climb despite blazing sun. The problem is its quite a small area..compared to Fontainebleau its tiny. Its popularity as a summer bouldering venue has had its effect it seems since i first visited this place in 2006. Path erosion is bad, litter lurks and now every weekend it seems the campsite is full to total capacity with vans from many areas of Europe. The place is still stunning, no doubt, so i do not blame any European with a van for coming down here. I just hope the locals can manage it ok so this place does not get ruined by traffic that's all. So far they have stuck in a new bridge at the campsite end to help climbers get over the river. Good idea it seems except the bridge is only shoulder width wide. What that means is anyone with a large mat (which most people have to take into the Wood due to choice landings) has to take it off and drag it over the bridge with difficulty. Not the smartest move. Anyway I'm waffling it was time to climb....

So after warming up i moved up to Piranja a 7c/7c+ problem that had become a total nemesis for me in trips of the past. I was on my own and only had a small mat (the one the goat did its business on) still i just felt so good in the cooler temps i figured it was worth a shot day one. First up i pulled on "the move". You have a two finger crimp in you LH, your right is on a small sloper, you paste your left foot on a small edge and fire up RH to a positive edge taking the swing left your body takes before pulling up to jugs and the finish. It was this swing that had caused me problems in the past. Today though i fired the move off first go. Wow! it was on...A rest, a go to remind me of the start and third go i fire the link and put a nemesis to bed. Great start to my time here and time for a beer...