Friday, June 5, 2009

Magic 5 - Something's better than nothing

In the bag today I had a new reel of finger tape, scissors and a tube of super glue. The idea was get up to Jack's... smear a load of super glue over the hole in my finger, tape it and send the problem in perfect comfort. It did not go to plan. 

To be fair, the super glue and tape combo did not hold up too badly. The pain I felt in my finger when crimping down on the edges was more a dull ache rather than anything too nasty. However, yesterday's session had taken more of a toll on my shoulders than expected. I was tired and that along with the tape created too big a hurdle to surmount. I did not really believe I could do it today and after a few half-hearted goes I sacked it off. 

Spirits were pretty low, the session had been a big disappointment, the rain was still forecast to stop play most of the weekend, so that might have been my last chance to climb Jack's. I decided rather than heading straight home to sulk I needed to just climb something. I'd seen a video on Dobbin's blog of the stag team making short work of Jack the Chipper and it looked good. Armed with that beta i headed up to the bloc. 

The key to the problem is a right foot cam, i managed to get that in good first go and knew the flash was on. A couple more moves on a nice fat pinch saw me reach a good sloper on the lip. The mantel is slightly fiddly but once i sorted my feet out it was easy enough to roll out. This is my hardest flash to date but I'm not sure if its 7c or 7b+ to be honest. 

The rain has arrived as I type so its a case of waiting it out now to see if I can sneak one more session out of the Wood in the next few days. Fingers crossed. 

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